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Profession: Nose. Bertrand Duchafour

Yes, it may seem very strange, but I like some metallic notes. You know, the smell of yellow coins? Well, you can imagine it. I like the smell of garage. It is very special. Every day I feel both good and bad smells, but I can get abstracted from it. I put a kind of obstacle that protects me. I have been doing painting for quite a long time, for over 30 years. Before you start creating a picture you have a pure canvas. Virginally pure, white. You have to imagine what your picture will be like. You need to conceptualize what you want to create in two-dimension space, you need to project. Before creating, you have to understand clearly what you want to project on the picture. The same happens to fragrances. You have a white sheet of paper in front of you, you compose a formula. You need to understand clearly the exact ingredients and the succession of their mixing. You need to consider everything: space, time – of course, time, as it is the key element located in your mind when you are composing a formula for composing a fragrance. Your fragrance obtains three dimensions through the time vector which is the fourth dimension. You have to keep in mind everything: it means that if you deliberately choose some raw materials, for example, osmantus which is included into Miss Violet, osmantus absolue, in a certain proportion in you fragrance, you have to understand clearly how it will evolve through the space in a certain period of time. It is like painting because you conceptualize everything, but it is on the more sophisticated level. At the beginning of my work I was simply amazed by some perfumers, for example, Wood Niska, Jean Paul Guerlain. They worked in a classic style. If you are a self-made person the other people will follow you, otherwise – you will follow others. I was not simply working with oud, I got inspired by it – nobody influenced me, I just came from Japan where I participated in the ceremony Kodo where oud is used. I would even say that I influenced the fashion; I offered oud to everybody – to all my clients. It is my next attempt to recreate leather with the help of plant ingredients such as violet leaves, osmantus, mimosa, cassis. It is vegetal leather. In a classic leather structure one can find leather components in the basis, very heavy components, smoky, animalistic, quite aggressive, amber, dark notes. In this composition everything is opposite – the leather is felt in the top notes, very fresh, light, watery, transparent, green, vegetal – totally different. I simply turned everything upside down. I created the leather which is felt from top notes to base, it is felt vertically. It was my work, but at the same time a kind of challenge. I wish all the best to the project founded by Dmitriy parfum büro. I hope it will be a good possibility for Ukrainian customers to understand how fragrances are created, discover artistic side of this work.



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